It was an intense, contradictory and literally dark experience, this Gucci show.
It was full of glitter and glam, 80′ s waders, English tweeds, Disney and Sega reports and all recognizable multi-level orchestrated versions by which Alessandro Michele revived this brand as a world-class powerhouse.
However, one of the most commercially successful designers in the world – perhaps the most – deliberately wanted to make it almost – impossible to see his clothes. Turning the stroboscopic projectors into the audience in a cave-like, misty, half-lit room full of copies of antiquities, Michele actually put forward a manifesto to resist pressure to accelerate ahead and change what he does.
Previously, he had warned the press about what was happening in his mind.
“When you see the show, you’ll see what I’m trying to do: I want to stay in my aesthetics,” he said. “When I work in the collection, I am already thinking about space, music and light. I think it’s no longer time to talk about clothes. In the beginning, it was something that allowed me to express the idea of beauty. Now it’s more than beauty. It is a state of mind. It is an idea of the community and a profound expression. ” The press release expressed it with even more emotional power: “Resist the mantra of speed that violently leads to losing one’s self. Resist the illusion of the new at all costs. “
Rebuilding the impressive Michele’ s experience began with the invitation. A tin box was delivered to each visitor, covered with occult Gothic handwritten symbols, which contained, among other things, a tiny set of black candles and a pack of matches describing the word hypnotism. In the same performance, Michele invited his audience to a pottery room with Greek and Roman statues, forms of Egyptian Gods and a fragment of an Aztec temple (after being moved to Milan by Cinecittà cinema studios). After the guests found their seats they found out that they were sitting next to a mummy wrapped in a bandage beside the bench.
Perhaps one of the keys to Michele’s complex personality is that he lives and works in Rome, right on the layers of history and the details of the people who lived there before are still noticeable. However, he is also one of the masters of the digital universe, announcing his visions exquisitely through Instagram campaigns, a friend of celebrities by collecting strange and creative individuals in his family’s brand.
Perhaps it is not surprising that this interconnected person delivers sensitivity to the beginning of the past and the present as if they were at the same time. As this is evidenced by his collections. “To feel the present,” he said, “I have to know that something existed before. I want to touch it. “
Michele’s friendship with Elton John was one of the contact points of this collection. David Furnish, who was starring in the first series, confirmed that Michele had been invited to go through Elton’s 70th-century glam rock record. “It has all the things Bob Mackie and Annie Reavey did,” Furnish said. “Elton loves Alessandro and really appreciates what he does.”
A leather suit with musical notes, a pom-poms jacket, and the purple shake with the tassels decorated with a lime green was a direct tribute to Elton. Not to mention the pink satin clown suit with swooping pagoda shoulders (type of shirts with sharp edging).
Meanwhile, the sweater with the words Never marry a Mitford was another souvenir of a recent relationship with which Michele surprised the crowds – with Duke and Duchess of Devonshire at Chatsworth House, where Gucci hosted this year the incredible House Style show.
Michele was very busy this year to put it mildly. Gucci’s exponential growth is a phenomenon of our time in fashion, the change of game that provokes the envy of all competitors. If there is melancholy, hesitation and noise in the way Michele presented this collection, it may be an accurate reflection of the way the modern world feels. On the other hand, something else he had said in the past just reveals the detailed bias that demonstrates the strong success at every Gucci store and duty-free store on Earth: “I’m trying to disclose the fact that fashion is full of small things. “