This year marks the 20th anniversary of the violent murder of Gianni Versace in Miami Beach. This tragic event brings to the forefront the famous designer, especially as a subject of Ryan Murphy’s next American crime story, to be fired at FX next year. The horrible death of Versace has been said and rewritten.
Perhaps in order to redefine it, Donatella Versace chose to show the Spring 2018 show at the Triennale Museum in Milan, as a tribute to Gianni’s inspirations and creations, to celebrate “a genius … an idol. my brother “. She wanted to focus on his life, not on his violent end, but also on his feminist slopes and the eternal significance of his plans.
So, for the first time since taking over the creative direction of the company, she has taken out the main drawings and tracks from 1991-1995, some of Gianni Versace’s most iconic collections: Vogue, Warhol, My Friend Elton, Idols, Baroque, Animalia, Native Americans, Tresor de la Mer, Metal Mesh, and Butterflies.
From each of these print motifs, Donatella Versace has redefined t-shirts, square-shouldered jackets, leggings, overalls, corsets, embossed drawings, mini cases and maxi skirts. Not to mention the high waisted jeans, the logo t-shirts, the fanny packs, and the stiletto boots with jewelery. Each theme group was held in a full capsule collection so one can say that it represents a complete wardrobe that can be worn from day to night with starfish or the faces of Marilyn Monroe and James Dean.
A piece of a black and white skirt worn by Naomi Campbell in the Native American collection (Fall ’92) is literally from the archives, as the work it required was such that it could not be reproduced in time for this show – worn by Natasha Poly. Naomi was in a gold chain mail (Metal Mesh, Fall ’94), framed for the finale by Carla Bruni, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer and Helena Christensen, under the song of George Michael “Freedom! ’90.”
This show is impossible to “inspect” for clothes, because history has judged them up to this point and they are winners each and all together. Gianni Versace’s work was known for his special humor, his sense of history, sliding and playful warmth. And the result of that? : It remains beautiful over time. Baroque leggings, the little black dress (crepe dress) with gold embroidery over the shoulders and hips or mini covered by Warhol’s icons, the butterfly fanny packs, the decorated starfish belt …. The velvet-weared stretch-velvet dresses in the mildest pastel tones – the mint, the pink, the blue of the sky – a palette of purity / clarity and extremely relevant, are the colors and the silhouette of this season (which was nevertheless presented for the first time 22 years ago).
Gianni Versace knew that beauty and vulgarity were elegant cliques-something his sister appreciates especially for his aesthetic heritage, along with his courage. And she is smart enough to identify at this time the relevance of this synergy. “We got it,” it seemed to say to anyone who could hit her brother’s legacy otherwise. “We conquered it”.