It is time to remove urban, girlish toys for the purpose of forging. The spring collection of Miuccia Prada was, as she said, “with interest to him who can be active and present today.” In Prada’s mind, there is no doubt about what this means: “I just want to change the world, especially for women, because there is so much against us, yet.”
Everyone knows that he was talking about resistance to the forces threatening to overthrow women’s rights. Since the election of Donald Trump, the need has become urgent, with fashion being an ally in this fight, “I propose fighter women in a very practical way,” Prada said. “Through clothes, which is what I do.”
It was an empowering demonstration that took place between the cartoons of women and the manga artists whose designs dominated the company’s huge headquarters. “They are mostly modern artists, but also some from the 1930s to the 1960s,” said Prada. “I found it inspired that with a pencil in your hand, you can tell your life.” The collection was based on the placement of the stamp on an empty canvas. Coats, jackets and cropped trousers were printed on a flat screen so that the folds appear – an analogous and rough analogue process deliberately dated back to the time before the digital print that came to normalize the human touch.
The outcome was heavily reminiscent of the dreadful, ambitious energy of self-realization in the early 80’s of clubs and street-style in London and New York, through a Prada lens. The only sure thing is that it was an amazing sewing show, from the big coats with the fringed sleeves to the oversized jackets with the cut sleeves (almost sleeveless) to the plastic waterproof, like the classic black nylon waterproof Prada. There were prints of animals in modern prints, cat-eye shades, zebra and leopard prints, kitten-heel slingbacks and flat shoes, pointy studded brogues.