Versace Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear Collection in Milan

Donatella Versace made her comeback for her show at the family palazzo. This house is the starting point, in a sense, of the House, as Gianni got his Medusa logo from a pebbled fresco on the courtyard floor – but also a great place to watch a show. But despite the applause in the accompanying techno sounds, it was a boon as it marked the 20th anniversary of her brother’s shocking death.

This collection was a tribute to the brother whose creative heritage is supervised and cultivated by Donatella. It was also a realistic rewrite of its codes for a new generation of consumers which was broadcasted to them. The opening section of costumes with stripes and short costumes not only recalled the initial disassembly of Gianni’s exclusive clothing but was also a jacket shape very similar to his own. This piece was “freshened” by the placement of a secondary strip – or it was developed by replacing the strip completely with a thin metal chain sewn inside the fabric. The t-shirts with logos were in the shades of a Miami palette in dusty pink and blue, as well as the pins with a logo in a jacket and a work coat, were drawn from the late 80’s. The two prints she used were both from the archives, but – at least according to another source from the Donatella environment they were not used again. These, of course, appeared in the lining, but also up and in denim or rebuilt as a fabric for a bomber jacket. And of course the Lurex golden form.

The collection was accompanied by a special line of women’s clothing designed exclusively to accompany men, apart from the Resort. The House presented some amazing pieces that he rarely does, in contrast with Prada, who often dares it, creating an important retail platform. The black ribbons worn by each girl were taken from Gianni’s latest couture show.

This collection was not entirely retrospective. Although there were some sporting track pieces and two-tone sneakers with zippers, most of them brought the new breath of the house. Howeverm, with an overwhelming majority, this was a collection that looked back but remained present – and that is what should attract future Versace customers to Medusa’s House.

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